When to begin to put a behavior on cue?--a question from the Thursday clicker class

Sue from the Thursdsay night clicker class at Sherwood greeted everyone in a comment and then asked a question about cues:

Hi everyone!Wit is finally clicking to clicker training! He has started to offer more random behaviors when he doesn't know what I am looking for. He is being pretty cute if I do say so. :) I'm wondering if I should start putting verbal and/or visual cues on his "down" and "back up" at this time as those are his two strongest behaviors at this time. Looking forward to our next class!Sue

Her question is timely as "cues" will be the major topic covered in the "brief lecture" part of the next class session. Book and Smith in their "Quick Clicks" book suggest that the dog first must be doing the behavior in a variety of places and with a variety of trainer body orientations. Second you must be able to predict when the dog will do the behavior. In other words if you are sure the dog will do it and the dog has done in a variety of environment/trainer poses--then you can introduce the cue. Now if you are looking for competition precision you can wait till the behavior is precise or you can introduce the cue and work on perfection post cue. (Some teach a cue and then perfect the behavior and then change the cue to the cue they plan to use in competition).

Just a split half second before, or sometimes as the behavior begins to happen, say the cue or make the hand signal (dog may already associate a hand signal if you lured to begin with--so teach a verbal cue). Then of course C/T (click and treat) when the dog does it. Do this 30-50 times over several days in several locations. Then very occasionally, don't give a cue and when dog does behavior do NOT C/T. Do this only rarely but it can help. What you are really telling the dog is that they get the C/T for doing the behavior BUT only when it is cued. Hence in learning theory terms it is "a cue that reinforcement is available for only one given behavior at this moment in time".

Then what you begin doing is saying the cue earlier and earlier so that the cue preceeds the behavior. You are looking for the dog to begin waiting for the cue--doing nothing until the cue is provided. This, of course, is hundreds of reps after you began the process as discussed in the proceeding paragraph.

Hope this helps--we will go over this in class.

Clicker Expo Registration Open for March Conference

The "Clicker Expo" sponsored by Karen Pryor's operation is an unbelievable event. I went for the first time last year and learned more than I have at any other training event. I also became more fully a clicker trainer there and would not have traded that experience for anything. It is 3 days of workshops and lectures covering a range of topics and has trainers that focus on all canine obedience (e.g. comp obedience, pet class training, assistance dog training, agility, freestyle, etc.). It is by far the best place to learn the theory and technique of clicker training. Also it is a hoot as dogs and their owners take over a hotel for 3 days. Folks are friendly and welcoming too. You can go with or without a dog too. There is one on the west coast in February and the one closest to us is in Lexington KY the last weekend in March. I hightly recommend it. If you want working spots with your dog in workshops, you do need to register soon too--though you learn just as much without a working spot. Information and registration at: http://www.clickertraining.com/clickerexpo/

Current 6:30 Clicker Class at Sherwood Annoucements

Check out the discussion at earlier posts (right now you can get to them by scrolling down but when the page room runs out, you will have to access them to the left on the list). Please join in the discussion.

Remember to bring whatever you want to use as a mat for you dog to go to relax and stay put. We will be working on "go to mat" among other things of course. See you all Thursday at 6:30. Remember too the class is an hour and a half.

KDTC to offer a Clicker Obedience Class in January

The Kalamazoo Dog Training Club will be offering a clicker class in January. Melissa Olivett and I will be teaching it. We have offered it a couple of times before and folks seemed to have really gotten a lot out of it. It was originally designed to be a beginning clicker class but we have always had to adapt it because there has always been a group of more experienced crossover trainers and sometimes experienced clicker trainers. We will do so again for the class in January and try to meet beginners and more advanced folks needs as best we can. The class will be Thursdays at 7 and you can get registration forms and information at the KDTC web site. http://www.kdtc.org/class.html

Question on how much to "help" in teaching backing up

Debbie Hodges (Samoyed and King Charles dogs) wins the award for using the website first--I really like communicating this way and think it can be really helpful for the class going well. Everyone please continue to post comments under the post below this one asking for general quesitons and comments. Comment here for thoughts, questions and experience relevant to Debbie's question and my thoughts as recorded below.

Debbie had an interesting question. She says: "Ruby (the King Charles) has the back up going no problem, Princess (the Samoyed) doesn't have a clue. Could I "invade her space" a little to get her to back up and then click? I bet I would only have to do it a few times and she would get the idea. What do you think?"

Stepping into her to get a few backs initially and C/T (click and treat) those steps back would certainly probably work to get things going. But I am going to suggest, especially for an experienced trainer like Debbie, that she remain patient with the shaping and allow her dog to figure it out one bit at a time. I say this because of the skill building and "clicker thinking" that would go into it for both Debbie and Princess. I can't imagine shaping not working for this behavior. Brenda says it is one of the behaviors she would always choose to shape (maybe she will say why).

What happens when you try it with Princess? Does she stand still waiting? Does she have considerable training in non-clicker methods--waiting is a common crossover dog behavior that needs to be worked through. I would say be sure to get the smallest approximation possible. For dogs that hold still, I would start with clicking any movement at all 3,5, 10 times. Then look for any paw movement (C/T that for a bit) , then look for that back movement however slight (C/T that for bit). Build to a full step back and keep building from there. I focus on back feet just so I can notice it better and see the slightest back movement of those feet. Try to click while the movement is happening not after she stops. Also sometimes it helps to throw the treat behind the dog. Overall, get her offering behaviors when shaping and the back will have to work--she is bound to at least accidentally give some back movement if she is active!

Thursday clicker class--let's hear from you

Post your feedback, questions & experiences with the class and with your training. Click on the comment link below to post. Let's discuss! Some ideas on what might be helpful to discuss before next class session (11-29) are below.

How did class go? Anythings you wanted more or less of? I am thinking of abandoning the powerpoint slides---the class is too big and the screen too small. Let me know if you found them helpful though and I will continue it. I do want to "present" a bit in this class because what I really want is for you to understand clicker methods--once you know the theory, you can figure out how to train almost anything on your own. My goal for the class really is to to teach handlers new to dog training, and/or new to clicker training, a fun and effective method for life-long training that encourages a “thinking” dog that loves to learn.


Did you find Sue Ailsby's levels book on the net ok (link is in the left column of this site near the top)? Please read that introduction first---any questions on that?

Remember to go ahead and work level 1 behaviors even if your dog already knows them. If you dog already knows the behavior you may just find yourself moving very quickly through the steps in the level and then go on to the next level after your dog can consistently do that behavior that is described at the top of each behavior/level section. As you work the behaviors under whatever level--let us know how it is going for you. Please post your problems and questions AND YOUR SUCCESSES, etc!

Remind everyone who you and your dog are when you post. Click the comments link below to join in the conversation. I may take some comments and make them into posts so that we can focus more on discussing some of your comments. Comment often!